If you suffer from freckles, melasma, or other types of skin discolouration, the chances are that you would have searched for the skincare products or treatments that contain skin lightening active ingredients such as hydroquinone, retinol, vitamin C, natural extracts, glutathione or kojic acid. You might also have searched cosmetic treatments such as skin peel London or laser treatments. The efficacy of treatments as well as the skin treatments varies depending on the type of ingredients used, the extent of severity and individual’s skin type.
Skin discolouration is often a problem for many and they look for ingredients which lighten their skin colour or give them even skin tone. Kojic acid is one such ingredient which has gained massive popularity as a natural skin lightening and brightening ingredient in place of hydroquinone. It is known to lighten hyperpigmentation. It’s considered a safer alternative of hydroquinone that has been banned in many countries due to the risk of skin cancer.
What is Kojic acid?
Kojic acid is a natural ingredient that s derived from different fungi such as mushrooms and sake. It is produced as a result of rice fermentation that is used in the manufacturing of sake in Japan. It is a fungus that is generated by different species of Aspergillus, Acetobacter and Penicillium. It acts as a competitive as well as universal plant and animal polyphenol oxidases inhibitor which catalyses the tyrosinase conversion to melanin.
It inhibits the function of an enzyme called ‘tyrosinase’ which plays a significant role in melanin production (a colour pigment of the skin). Various research studies have shown the efficacy of Kojic acid similar to that of hydroquinone for skin lightening in the case of hyperpigmented skin.
Mechanism of Kojic acid
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https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3657227/
Kojic acid has a highly effective skin lightening protein called ‘tyrosinase’. The kojic acid reaches deep into the skin‘s cellular layers and works by inhibiting a particular tyrosinase function known as ‘catecholase function’. This function is significant because it is a vital step in formation of colour pigment melanin which is primary skin colour compound. The use of kojic acid inhibits the ability of tyrosinase to manufacture melanin which helps to lighten skin tone.
In addition to skin lightening properties, kojic acid also has antioxidant, antifungal and antibacterial qualities which make it effective for treating other skin conditions as well. Kojic acid is widely used in cosmetic industry for the treatment of melasma. Its efficacy for melasma treatment has been verified by numerous clinical studies especially when it is used in combination with glycolic acid . In one double-blind study, 4% of kojic acid was combined with 5% glycolic acid which reduced pigmentation significantly in almost 51% of the patients .
Effectiveness
Kojic acid has been found to be an effective option for treating hyperpigmentation and to lighten skin tone with the same level of effectiveness as that of other commonly known skin lightening agents like hydroquinone. However, kojic acid is a relatively unstable compound that easily reacts with sunlight and oxygen resulting in a chemical change. Due to this, it is packaged and used in cosmetics as a kojic acid dipalmitate compound which is more stable than the kojic acid.
Kojic acid effectively treats melasma, dark spots, age spots, acne marks and freckles. Other skin conditions like stretch marks and uneven skin tone can also be treated through skin rejuvenation treatments that use kojic acid as an active ingredient. As it has anti-oxidant properties too, it helps to remove free radicals and keeps the skin cells in a healthy state. The kojic acid is found in numerous skin care products including creams, serums, lotions, gels etc. It is also used in combination with other potent active ingredients in skin peel facial rejuvenation treatment.
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https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3667296/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2807702/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4257945/
http://www.skintherapyletter.com/2006/11.9/1.html
[1] Lim JT. Treatment of melasma using kojic acid in a gel containing hydroquinone and glycolic acid. Dermatol Surg 25(4):282-4 (1999 Apr).
Garcia A, Fulton JE Jr. The combination of glycolic acid and hydroquinone or kojic acid for the treatment of melasma and related conditions. Dermatol Surg 22(5):443-7 (1996 May).
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2807702/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4257945/
http://www.skintherapyletter.com/2006/11.9/1.html
[1] Lim JT. Treatment of melasma using kojic acid in a gel containing hydroquinone and glycolic acid. Dermatol Surg 25(4):282-4 (1999 Apr).
Garcia A, Fulton JE Jr. The combination of glycolic acid and hydroquinone or kojic acid for the treatment of melasma and related conditions. Dermatol Surg 22(5):443-7 (1996 May).
Kojic acid and treatment of melasma
When Kojic acid is used in certain concentrations, the chemical agent in it works on the level of melanocytes, inhibiting the production of melanin. In addition to this, it acts as an antioxidant which works against the effects of free radicals which cause oxidative harm to the skin cells. By removing free radicals, it helps to prevent the signs of ageing which occur due to the damage to the vital protein structures of the skin.
As an anti-bacterial agent, it disrupts the processes that are required for bacteria to thrive. This causes expiration of bacteria.
Despite its benefits for skin lightening and brightening, it has few side effects. It should be used after a consultation with your practitioner as its frequent use can make your skin sensitive. It can also develop painful and itchy allergic contact dermatitis due to which it is usually packaged with corticosteroids which help in preventing the contact dermatitis. So it should be used with caution and with the advice of the professional and experienced dermatologist or cosmetic practitioner. For guidance about the use of kojic acid in skincare, you can contact the expert, professional and highly experienced cosmetic doctors at the CosmeDocs- Facial rejuvenation treatment clinic.
Is it safe?
The use of kojic acid is safe when it is used in lower concentrations (l% -4%). There are reports of increased skin sensitivity and sensitization after its use in some people. However, combining it with other skin rejuvenating ingredients in a combined skin rejuvenation treatment like that of skin peel London treatment can produce safe and highly effective results for skin revitalisation and lightening.
Use of Kojic acid in skin peel treatment
Kojic acid is widely known as a safe alternative to the harsh skin bleaching agents such as
hydroquinone. Combined with exfoliating agents such as glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid it can also help in treating acne conditions. The potent blend of skin rejuvenating ingredients gives a clear skin with even skin tone without causing skin inflammation and irritation. The delicate approach of facial peel London treatment with kojic acid, towards skin clarity and lightening, poses little to no risk. The powerful combo of active ingredients in skin peel facial revitalising treatment is mild on all skin types including sensitive skin and it brightens, lightens and tightens skin in the quick and easy way.
Bottom Line
The proper formulation and use of kojic acid can give outstanding results for skin lightening, brightening and rejuvenation. It is important to use it in moderation and caution after having a consultation with a professional cosmetic practitioner. Kojic acid inhibits the production of melanin in the skin which lightens skin tone. The combined use of a kojic acid with AHAs and BHAs can give excellent facial rejuvenation results.
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